Carouge sits across the River Arve from central Geneva, technically a separate municipality (though fully integrated into the city's transport network). It was founded in the 1780s by Victor-Amadeus III of Sardinia as a free-trade town to compete with Geneva, laid out in a regular Mediterranean grid quite unlike the organic Vieille Ville. The character shows: lower buildings, wider pavements, a more southern mood.
Today Carouge is Geneva's most relaxed quarter, home to independent shops, artists' studios, antique dealers, and a dense collection of bars and cafés. The central square (Place du Marché) runs a market on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Le Chat Noir, a small arts bar on rue Vautier, hosts live music in its basement. For an evening away from the high prices of central Geneva, the restaurants and bars of Carouge offer a more approachable alternative.