Sankey's has been the town's serious seafood restaurant since 1985 — a family-run institution split across the upstairs dining room and a basement champagne bar known simply as "The Cellar." The menu is straightforward and uncompromisingly fresh: oysters, dressed crab, lobster, whole sea bass.
The Cellar bar is cheaper and more atmospheric than the upstairs restaurant — vaulted brick ceilings, cask ales and a more concise menu of the same fish. Booking ahead is essential at weekends.