St John's Church

A Norman church with a magnificent 12th-century crossing tower, tucked behind the castle mound.

St John's Church stands just south of the castle mound and is the older and more interesting of Devizes's two medieval churches. The exterior is dominated by its Norman crossing tower, built around 1130 and barely altered since. Go inside for the chancel arch, which is a masterpiece of Romanesque carving — the zigzag chevrons and grimacing beak-head figures are in remarkably good condition after nine centuries.

The church is usually open during the day and entry is free. It is quieter and less well-known than the Wiltshire Museum, but for anyone interested in Norman architecture it is essential. The churchyard is pleasant and gives a good view up to the castle. A brass plaque inside commemorates some of Devizes's worthies going back to the medieval period. Allow 30-45 minutes, more if you want to read the monuments carefully.

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A story
St John's was built in the early 12th century, likely at the same time as the original Norman castle, and the two buildings formed the centre of the new settlement at Devizes. The church's crossing tower — solid, square, and decorated with arcading — is one of the finest Norman towers in Wiltshire. Inside, the chancel arch dates from around 1130 and is elaborately carved with chevron and beak-head ornament, the kind of work that required specialist craftsmen and serious money.