Small Isles
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Small Isles

Small Isles

Inner Hebridean island group of Rum, Eigg, Muck, and Canna, quiet and lightly trafficked south of Skye.

The Small Isles are four islands — Rum, Eigg, Muck, and Canna — lying just south of Skye in the Inner Hebrides. Together they form one of the quietest corners of Scotland, with barely a thousand people between them and no cars on some of the islands at all.

The ferry from Mallaig is run by CalMac (calmac.co.uk), and the timetable varies by day — on the right day you can take the morning train from Glasgow and step straight onto the boat. The crossing is part of the experience.

Rum is the largest island, dominated by the Cuillin of Rum — smaller than the more famous Skye Cuillins but no less dramatic. It's a national nature reserve and the site of a successful sea eagle reintroduction, originally brought over from Bodø in Norway. If you visit, look up.

Eigg has perhaps the most character of the four. The islanders famously bought it from the laird in 1997 in a landmark community buyout, and the island now runs on its own renewable energy grid. The Sgùrr of Eigg — a great basalt ridge visible from the mainland and surrounding islands — is a satisfying half-day walk with views that justify every step.

Canna is the westernmost and smallest of the four, a quiet place with no accommodation beyond camping. It looks beautiful from the ferry but takes commitment to visit properly.

Muck is tiny and low-lying, with self-catering cottages available for rent. It's the kind of place you go to slow down entirely.

In good weather, a day on the Small Isles is one of the finer things you can do in Scotland. In bad weather, you'll be reminded that these islands don't perform for visitors.