Lower Fishguard is a world apart from the commercial town on the clifftop above. The old harbour quarter sits at the bottom of a steep lane — a cluster of fishermen's cottages around a small quay, boats resting in the water, the hills of Pembrokeshire visible across the bay. It is quiet enough now to feel genuinely undiscovered, though it is well known to those who seek it out.
The harbour was the working centre of Fishguard before the ferry port at Goodwick took over the town's maritime trade. Today it is largely residential, with a pub and a few boats still working the bay. A walk around the quay and the narrow lanes behind it takes half an hour and offers a view of a Welsh harbour that has changed very little in the past hundred years.