Montreal is one of the great food cities of North America. The French culinary tradition runs deep, but waves of immigration have created a dining scene that is wildly diverse and consistently excellent, often at prices that would shock visitors from Toronto or New York.
The Essentials
Schwartz's (3895 Boulevard Saint-Laurent) has been serving Montreal smoked meat since 1928. The line is always out the door, the space is cramped, and the meat -- hand-cut, thick-sliced, on rye with mustard -- is legendary. No credit cards. Nearby The Main is the local counter-argument, slightly less famous but equally devoted to the craft.
Poutine is everywhere, from late-night chip trucks to upscale restaurants putting their own spin on it. For the classic greasy-spoon version, try La Banquise on Rue Rachel, open 24 hours with dozens of variations. Chez Claudette on Laurier near Saint-Denis is another favorite with creative interpretations.
Montreal bagels are distinct from New York bagels -- smaller, sweeter, denser, and wood-fired. The eternal rivalry is between Fairmount Bagel (open 24 hours) and St-Viateur Bagel in Mile End. Try both and pick a side.
Neighborhoods for Eating
The Plateau and Mile End are packed with bistros, brunch spots, and BYOB restaurants -- Quebec's generous BYOB policy means you can bring your own wine to many restaurants and skip the markup. Old Montreal has fine dining and atmospheric terrace restaurants. Chinatown along Rue de la Gauchetiere is small but lively, with dim sum and pho. Little Italy around the Jean-Talon Market has excellent Italian and increasingly diverse options. The market itself is one of the best in North America -- go for the produce, the cheese, the charcuterie, and the people-watching.
Notable Restaurants
Joe Beef (2491 Rue Notre-Dame Ouest) is the restaurant that put Montreal's Little Burgundy neighborhood on the culinary map. Reservations are hard to get. Next door, the same team runs Liverpool House and Vin Papillon, both excellent.
Au Pied de Cochon (536 Avenue Duluth Est) is chef Martin Picard's temple of Quebecois excess -- foie gras poutine, duck in a can, and portions designed for serious appetites.
Toque! (900 Place Jean-Paul-Riopelle) is Montreal's standard-bearer for fine dining, with a focus on Quebec ingredients prepared with French technique. Dress up.
For a more casual but outstanding meal, Damas on Avenue Van Horne serves exceptional Syrian cuisine, and Barroco in Old Montreal does beautiful small plates in a candlelit stone-walled room.