Centro Habana is the densely populated residential district between Old Havana and Vedado — the neighbourhood where most Havana residents actually live, relatively few tourists venture, and the real street life of the city plays out without much regard for the outside world. The streets are narrow, the buildings are tall and close together, and the noise and energy levels are high from early morning until late at night.
The neighbourhood is not conventionally "beautiful" but it is honest: bodegas (state ration shops) on every corner, basketball games on the street, women leaning out of upstairs windows in conversation with people below, unofficial bars operating out of living rooms. Neptuno Street and Galiano Street are the main commercial arteries, with small shops, hairdressers, and a permanent bustle. The Callejón de Hamel, a painted alley dedicated to Afro-Cuban culture, is at the northern edge of Centro Habana.