Coppelia Ice Cream Parlour

Coppelia is Cuba's most famous ice cream parlour — a futuristic circular pavilion designed by architect Mario Girona and built in 1966 in the Vedado neighbourhood, covering a full city block and designed to serve the masses of a socialist state unlimited access to high-quality ice cream as a revolutionary right.

The experience of visiting Coppelia is unlike any other ice cream parlour in the world. There are separate queues for Cubans paying in pesos (long, slow, cheap) and for tourists paying in convertible currency (shorter, more expensive, same ice cream). The recommendation is to join the Cuban queue if you have time — the sociological experience of waiting with Havana residents for scoops of chocolate and vanilla in the shade of the revolutionary-era architecture is worth more than the ice cream itself, which is good rather than extraordinary. The building's exterior — a flying-saucer canopy on pillar supports — is worth seeing regardless of whether you queue.

eating out vedado
A story
Coppelia was built in 1966 and named after the famous ballet, which gave the revolutionary government a way to frame ice cream as high culture accessible to all. It has served up to 35,000 people a day and at its peak offered fifty flavours of ice cream made to a recipe developed by a government technician who studied ice cream production across Eastern Europe. Today it offers fewer flavours and requires a queue, but the price is still set at Cuban peso rates — meaning that a local portion costs the equivalent of a few cents.

Other places in Vedado