The Francisco Donatién cigar factory in Pinar del Río is one of the few working factories in the province that allows visitors to tour the rolling floor. You can watch the torcedores at their benches — skilled workers rolling by hand, the same way Cuban cigars have been made for over a century.
Tours are usually brief and led by a factory guide. At the end, there's a small shop selling factory-direct cigars at official prices. This is a legitimate way to buy certified export-quality Cuban cigars with proper receipts, unlike the street vendors and farm sellers who, while friendly, cannot provide the documentation you'll need to legally take the cigars home. Book through your hotel or a state tour agency.