Getting around Dominica requires some patience. The roads are mountainous, winding, and in places poorly maintained — the island has the steepest and most dramatic road network in the eastern Caribbean. Drive slowly. After heavy rain, watch for landslides and washed-out sections, especially on secondary roads.
Minibuses are the local option for getting between towns and villages. They're privately owned, identified by an "H" on the licence plate, and depart when full rather than on a fixed schedule. Fares are cheap — EC$2 to EC$11 depending on distance, well under $5 USD. Most routes radiate from Roseau's main bus stand. Service runs during the day; after dark, you'll need a taxi.
Taxis are available and don't run on meters — agree on the fare before you get in. Registered taxis display a "Nature Island's Standard of Excellence" sticker on the windscreen. Standard fares are posted at the ferry terminal and Douglas-Charles Airport, which gives you a reference point.
Car rental is the best option for exploring the interior and getting to trailheads on your own schedule. You'll need to obtain a local driving permit (US$12, available from rental agencies). Drive on the left. A 4WD is worthwhile for accessing more remote areas. Fuel is available in Roseau and Portsmouth.
Between Roseau and Portsmouth — the island's two main towns — the west coast road passes small villages, sea views, and the Macoucherie Rum Distillery near Salisbury, one of the oldest in the Caribbean and worth a stop.