Portsmouth is Dominica's second town, a quiet settlement on Prince Rupert Bay in the north of the island. It serves as the base for visiting Cabrits National Park, where the restored Fort Shirley — an 18th-century British garrison — sits on a volcanic headland between two beaches.
A boat trip through the Indian River mangrove lagoons is one of Dominica's most popular excursions, and the guides who pole you through the tunnels of vegetation are excellent. The scenic coastal road between Portsmouth and Roseau passes through small villages, with overlooks and roadside restaurants along the way. Look out for the Macoucherie Rum factory near Salisbury, where an old waterwheel still powers the distillery.