With so much wilderness to explore on Dominica, visitors sometimes rush past the capital. Roseau is compact, genuinely lived-in, and worth a half-day. The Dominica Museum in the old colonial post office on the waterfront gives a good grounding in the island's history — colonial, volcanic, and Kalinago. Admission is modest.
The old town centre has cobblestone streets — the stones were brought over as ballast in trading ships — lined with small shops and wooden colonial houses. The Cathedral of Our Lady of Fair Haven is worth seeing, as is the seaward terrace of Fort Young on the headland at the south end of the centre. For shopping, head to Cork Street or to the New Market by the river mouth on Saturday morning.
The Botanic Gardens contain examples of most of the trees, shrubs, and flowers found on the island and serve as the headquarters of the Forestry, Wildlife and Parks Division — a useful stop for maps and guides before heading into the interior. Climb up through them to Morne Bruce for the best view over the town and the bay.