The approach to Livingston by boat from Rio Dulce town is one of the best journeys in Guatemala. The two-hour lancha ride passes through the Rio Dulce gorge, where the river narrows between walls of jungle-covered limestone rising hundreds of feet on both sides. Hot springs seep from the cliff faces; the water turns from green to black in the shadows; birds work the canopy overhead.
The gorge cannot be seen from land — it is accessible only by boat. Even if you are not staying in Livingston, the round trip from Rio Dulce town to see the gorge (and eat tapado in Livingston) is worth a day. Most lanchas stop at the hot springs and at the Castillo de San Felipe at the entrance to the lake.