Livingston is unlike anywhere else in Guatemala. A Garífuna town on the Caribbean coast, it is accessible only by boat — there are no roads in or out — which gives it a pleasantly stranded, tropical atmosphere. The Garífuna are descendants of Afro-Caribbean and indigenous Arawak people, and their culture, language, music, and food are distinct from the rest of the country.
The approach by boat from Río Dulce is half the experience. The river narrows into a spectacular gorge flanked by jungle cliffs before opening into the Caribbean, with Livingston at the mouth. The town itself is small and relaxed, with painted wooden houses, a beach lined with fishing boats, and a reggae-and-cumbia soundtrack.
The main attraction beyond the atmosphere is the Rio Dulce gorge and its tributaries. Just above Livingston, the river passes through steep canyon walls before widening. Two miles north of town are the Siete Altares — seven small waterfalls and natural pools where the water runs cold and clear. The walk there follows the coastline through forest and is manageable independently.
Livingston's Garífuna festivals — particularly December 12th (Our Lady of Guadalupe), New Year, and the Garífuna Settlement Day celebrations — are the liveliest times to be in town.
Getting there: lanchas run from Puerto Barrios (30 min) and from Río Dulce town (2 hours through the gorge). There is also a twice-weekly boat to Punta Gorda in Belize.