Fort-de-France's best food is Creole: the island's cooking synthesises African, Indian, French, and Amerindian traditions into something distinct. Look for colombo (curried goat or chicken), accras de morue (salt cod fritters), and boudin antillais (spiced blood sausage) as starting points. The Grand Marché is the best place to eat cheaply and well; the restaurants around La Savane cater heavily to tourists.
Le Petibonum — Outside the city proper, north along the coast, but worth the detour for Creole cooking in a memorable setting. Chef Harry Louisin serves the island's finest versions of the standards. Worth the taxi.
La Cave à Vins — A reliable option near the waterfront for straightforward French and Creole cooking with a decent wine list by Fort-de-France standards.
Snack Bar Ti Plage — The simplest and often best approach: a beach snack bar near Anse Mitan, across the bay from the city, serving accras and grilled fish to a local crowd.