The city's main market is a typical Mexican mercado — concrete halls full of butchers, fishmongers, fruit and vegetable stands, and the cheap fondas (food stalls) that locals visit for breakfast and lunch. Order panuchos (refried-bean-stuffed tortillas) or salbutes (puffy fried tortillas with shredded turkey), washed down with horchata or a cold agua de chaya made from a leafy Yucatecan green.
The market is most lively in the mornings. The fondas at the back have plastic chairs, a TV showing telenovelas and prices in the single-digit-dollar range. It is a far better introduction to Yucatecan cooking than any of the air-conditioned restaurants up on the Boulevard. Cash only.