Chetumal sits at the crossroads of Yucatecan, Belizean and Caribbean kitchens, and the food reflects it. The seafood is excellent — pescadillas (fried fish tacos) and ceviche de caracol (conch ceviche) are the local specialities. Yucatecan staples turn up everywhere: cochinita pibil, panuchos, sopa de lima. From across the Belize border come influences like rice and beans with coconut milk and Caribbean-style stewed chicken.
The Mercado Lázaro Cárdenas has the best cheap fondas in town. For sit-down meals, the small restaurants along Boulevard Bahía near the Maqueta serve grilled fish at sunset, and the streets just south of the Museo de la Cultura Maya have a cluster of Yucatecan cocinas económicas. Avoid the over-priced chains around the bus station.