Mercado Garmendia is Culiacan's main covered market and the best place in the city for a cheap, authentic meal. Breakfast here is an institution: birria de res (beef stew), machaca (dried beef scrambled with eggs), and tamales are all available from the early stalls before most restaurants have opened. The market also has a good selection of fresh produce, dried chilies, and the Sinaloan cheese varieties that rarely make it out of the state.
The food stalls around the perimeter are run by families who have occupied the same spots for generations. Point at what looks good on neighboring tables if you are unsure — this approach works better here than menu navigation. Budget around 80 to 120 pesos for a full breakfast with fresh juice.