☰Coyoacán

A former colonial village now swallowed by the city's southward sprawl, but still with the cobbled streets, low colour-washed houses, and central plaza of an independent town. This is where Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera lived (the Casa Azul is here), and where Trotsky was assassinated in 1940. Weekends are busy with markets in the main squares and street food everywhere — try a tostada at the Mercado de Coyoacán.