Palenque was one of the great city-states of the Classic Maya world, reaching its peak between roughly 600 and 800 AD under a series of brilliant rulers. Set against a wall of jungle-covered hills, the site has an atmosphere that few ruins can match: the sound of howler monkeys drifts down from the trees, and the stones are still green with moss in the wetter months.
The Temple of the Inscriptions is the centrepiece — a nine-tiered pyramid that houses the tomb of the king K'inich Janaab' Pakal, known as Pakal the Great. His jade death mask and the intricately carved sarcophagus lid (the original is in Mexico City's Anthropology Museum; a replica is in the site museum) rank among the finest objects in pre-Columbian art. Nearby, the Palace complex — a vast assemblage of courtyards, galleries, and a distinctive four-storey tower — served as the administrative and ceremonial hub of the city. The Group of the Cross, across the main plaza, consists of three temples with elaborate carved roof combs still standing. The site museum, near the entrance, holds many of the best-preserved finds.
Come early — the site opens at 8am, and the first couple of hours before the tour buses arrive from Palenque town are the most rewarding. Good walking shoes are essential; the terrain is uneven and some structures can be climbed. A hat and water are non-negotiable in the dry season. Allow at least three hours.