La Virgen is one of the best-known bars in the centro histórico — a wide, dimly lit room with eclectic decoration, live music several nights a week, and a long list of mezcals and craft beers. The atmosphere is younger and louder than the old cantinas but the drinks are good and the music leans toward traditional Mexican styles: norteño, son, and the occasional huapango, which is the musical tradition of the Huasteca region that surrounds the state.
Busy from around 9pm on weekends. The mezcal selection is genuinely impressive — the bartenders know what they are serving and are willing to explain the differences between producers if asked. Closes late.