The central market spreads through the streets and stairways behind the Plaza Borda, in the tightly packed block between the church and the hill. It runs every day but is most alive in the mornings, when vendors arrive with produce from the surrounding mountains and the food stalls are serving breakfast. The upper levels are dedicated to crafts and dry goods; the lower levels are food.
The Guerrero craft stalls are genuinely worth browsing. The state has a strong indigenous craft tradition, and the market stocks painted ceramics from Olinalá, woven palm baskets, carved wooden masks used in regional festivals, and huipiles (embroidered blouses) from the highland villages. These are cheaper here than in Mexico City craft shops, and most of it is made locally. The silver in the market stalls is mostly lower-quality tourist pieces — for serious silver buying, the dedicated silver shops in town are better. But for a bowl of pozole and a look at what the town actually uses, the market is where to start the day.