Los Portales — formally Portal Madero, Portal Reforma, and Portal 20 de Noviembre — is the long line of arcaded buildings that wraps two sides of the central plaza of Toluca. At around 250 metres in total, it is one of the longest continuous arcades in the Americas, and the heart of the city's evening life.
Under the arches sit cafes, sweet shops, restaurants, and stalls selling the local moscos (a sweet orange liqueur in tiny bottles) and chorizo verde, the green chorizo for which Toluca is famous. Sit at one of the cafes with a coffee in the late afternoon and the place comes properly alive.