Toluca is the capital of the State of Mexico, sitting at 2,680 metres above sea level on a high valley — making it one of the highest state capitals in Mexico and notably chilly by Mexican standards. It lies about 65 kilometres west of Mexico City and is often treated as part of the megalopolis sprawl, but it has a distinct character and a genuinely interesting city centre.
The historic centre is anchored by the Portal Madero, a long series of arcaded buildings that line the central streets, and the Cosmovitral Jardín Botánico, a botanical garden housed in a remarkable modernist building with enormous stained-glass panels covering the walls and ceiling in vivid colour. The main market, the Mercado Juárez, is good for food and crafts.
The biggest draw outside the city is the Nevado de Toluca national park, about 30 kilometres south — a dormant volcano (4,680 metres) with a striking crater lake that you can drive to within walking distance of the rim. The lakes inside the crater, Lago del Sol and Lago de la Luna, are extraordinary at altitude and make for a memorable half-day from the city.