A quieter, less photographed neighbour to Hartwood and Arca, El Tábano has been on the beach road for over a decade and has built a steady reputation for thoughtful contemporary Mexican cooking without the international fanfare. The menu changes weekly: seared tuna with chiltomate, chayote with epazote, slow-cooked lamb with mole.
The dining room is a small palapa with garden seating, ten or twelve tables, candles on every surface. Prices sit below the famous names down the road but the cooking is fully their equal. Reserve a day or two ahead; ask for a garden table.