The comedores strung along Masachapa's beachfront are the main reason to make the trip from Managua. These are informal family-run kitchens — plastic tables, mismatched chairs, a roof for shade — serving whatever came in on the boats that morning. The menu is effectively the same everywhere: whole fried snapper or sea bass, grilled shrimp, rice and beans, tostones, perhaps a simple salad. Occasionally lobster appears, at prices that feel implausibly low.
Ordering is uncomplicated. Point at what you want, or ask what's fresh. A full plate of fried fish with sides and a cold Toña costs very little. Eat slowly. There is no reason to hurry.
The comedores fill up on Saturday and Sunday with Managuans who know exactly what they are doing here. Come on a weekday if you want a quieter meal and attentive service.