The Pyrenees Café on Sumner Street is the third of Bakersfield's classic Basque restaurants and the smallest in feel. It has been operating since 1945 and takes its name from the mountain range that straddles Spain and France where the Basque people have their heartland. The dining room is low-ceilinged and no-frills, with the long communal tables and pitchers of red wine that define the format across all three establishments.
What distinguishes Pyrenees from its neighbors is an even less formal atmosphere — regulars have been eating here for decades and the staff know many of them by name. The menu follows the standard Basque boarding house progression, with soup, salad, beans, bread, and a choice of main courses. The pork dishes and the oxtail are worth ordering when available. Pyrenees is the easiest of the three to walk into without a reservation on a weekday afternoon.