Honolulu's Chinatown is the oldest in the United States, a compact grid of streets between downtown and the harbour that has been a port of entry for Asian immigrants since the 1850s. It's grittier and more interesting than polished Waikiki, with dim sum parlours, Vietnamese pho shops, lei stands overflowing with plumeria, and herbalists alongside a growing number of art galleries and craft cocktail bars. Maunakea Street is the main artery and the best place to start. The Oahu Market sells fresh fish, produce, and prepared foods that reflect Hawaii's multicultural palate. First Friday art walks bring crowds monthly. The neighbourhood has a raw energy and an authenticity that most of Honolulu's tourist zones lack, and eating here is both better and cheaper than almost anywhere else in the city.