Commander's Palace is the grande dame of New Orleans dining, a turquoise-and-white Victorian mansion on Washington Avenue in the Garden District that has been serving Creole cuisine since 1880. It is formal in the way that matters — excellent service, serious food, a wine list that rewards attention — without being stuffy. The dress code is in effect, but the atmosphere at the famous Saturday and Sunday jazz brunch is cheerful rather than ceremonious.
The food is haute Creole: turtle soup with sherry, bread pudding soufflé, a rotating menu that changes with the seasons but always honours the canon. The lunch menu is significantly cheaper than dinner and is served in the same room with the same service. Weekend brunch requires booking well in advance. Commander's Palace is not cheap, but for a significant meal in New Orleans it is the reference point against which everything else is measured.