Portsmouth rewards walking. The historic district is compact, and the concentration of well-preserved colonial and Federal-era buildings is one of the highest of any American city. The Strawbery Banke Museum is the anchor of the south end of the historic district; the waterfront and Market Square are the heart of the north end. Between them lies a grid of streets where nearly every building has a plaque.
For a city of 22,000 people, Portsmouth has an unexpectedly good food and arts scene. The Music Hall on Chestnut Street hosts national touring acts, author readings, and film series throughout the year. The galleries around Market Square carry serious work.