Zuni Pueblo (Old Village)

The original Zuni Pueblo — called Halona:Idiwan'a, "the Middle Place" — is one of the continuously inhabited communities in North America, and the Zuni people identify it as the centre of the world in their cosmology. The old village sits on a low rise above the Zuni River, its multi-storey adobe buildings densely packed and oriented according to traditional principles.

Walking through the old village with a guide gives a sense of how the pueblo has evolved over centuries: some buildings are clearly ancient, others are twentieth-century constructions that follow the same architectural logic. The Mission of Our Lady of Guadalupe stands at the edge of the old village, a massive seventeenth-century church that was heavily damaged during the Pueblo Revolt of 1680 and later rebuilt. Its interior murals, painted by Zuni artists in the 1970s, are striking — a Zuni visual vocabulary applied to a Catholic structure. Guided tours to see the murals can be arranged through the museum.

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A story
Coronado arrived at Zuni in 1540 looking for the legendary Seven Cities of Gold, having been told by earlier Spanish explorers that cities of great wealth lay to the north. What he found instead was a well-organised pueblo of several hundred people. The disappointment was mutual: the Zuni had heard of the approaching strangers and were not pleased to receive them.

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