Crazy Horse Memorial is hard to take in at a glance. The mountain carving is still unfinished, but even in its incomplete state the face, arm outline, and scale of the work dominate the valley north of Custer.
The visit is not only about the carving. The complex includes the Indian Museum of North America, a cultural centre, films, and viewing terraces that explain the long-running project and the debate around it. It is expensive compared with many public sites in the Black Hills, but it is one of the region's defining stops.