Ilhéus is Bahian in its food — moqueca (fish or prawn stew with dendê palm oil and coconut milk) is the local speciality and every restaurant worth visiting does a version. The city's position at the mouth of several rivers means fresh fish is always available. Cacao shows up in desserts and locally-made chocolate.
Restaurante Flor de Cacau near the historic centre is one of the better options for traditional Bahian food — the moqueca de camarão is good, the prices are fair, and the portions are large. Bar Vesúvio (in the Bloco Jorge Amado) is more tourist-oriented but the setting on the square is hard to beat. For something more casual, the waterfront market area has stalls selling fried fish, acarajé, and cold drinks — cheaper and livelier than the sit-down restaurants.