Several cacao fazendas around Ilhéus are open to visitors, offering tours that take you through the process from tree to chocolate. The experience is different from anything you'd find in a city museum: you walk through the forest-shade plantations, crack open cacao pods, taste the white pulp around the seeds (surprisingly sweet and fruity), and see how the beans are fermented and dried in the sun.
The most accessible fazendas are within 20–30km of the city centre. Fazenda Primavera and Fazenda Yrerê are both well-established. Arrange visits in advance — most operate through tour operators in Ilhéus. A half-day tour costs around R$80–120 per person and usually includes tasting.