Cabana do Sol is a popular beach restaurant at Calhau, serving the full range of northeastern Brazilian beach food: whole grilled fish, shrimp on the grill, crab in coconut milk, and generous caldeiradas (fish stews) that arrive in clay pots at the table. The setting is open-air, the service is slow and cheerful, and the prices are reasonable.
Come for a long beach lunch on a weekend, when the place is at its most lively. Grilled sururu — small mussels from the mangroves — is one of the house specialties and worth ordering if you haven't tried it. Cold beer arrives without asking.