Calhau is the most popular beach in São Luís, a long arc of sand on the northern coast of the island, backed by a strip of beach bars, kiosks, and restaurants. The waves here can be strong — the beach faces the open Atlantic — and it can get crowded on weekends, but the atmosphere is lively and the seafood fresh.
The beach is about 10 kilometres from the historic centre and accessible by bus. Arrive in the morning to find a spot before the weekend crowds build up. The bars and kiosks serve cold beer, grilled fish, and fried shrimp, and they stay open well into the evening. Sunset at Calhau, watching the sky go orange over the water while a forró track drifts from the nearest kiosk, is a classic São Luís experience.