☰Barretos

Barretos takes its meat seriously. This is a cattle town, and the churrascarias here are among the best in the interior of São Paulo state. Look for cuts from locally raised zebu — a slightly leaner beef with a distinctive flavour that differs noticeably from the European-breed cattle you'd find in the south of Brazil. The festival period in August brings dozens of food stalls to the Parque do Peão, with grilled meat, corn on the cob, and the sweet fried dough called churros dominating.

Barretos revolves around its cattle culture. The rodeo park on the edge of town is a permanent fixture year-round, even when the Festa do Peão crowds have gone home. The Museu do Peão inside the park tells the story of Brazilian cowboy life with genuine affection — saddles, lassos, clothing, and photographs going back to the early twentieth century. The rodeo arena itself, which seats 35,000, is worth a look even when empty.

Away from the park, the city centre is compact and pleasant for a short wander. The main square has the usual churches and a busy bar scene in the evenings. The local meat restaurants are serious about their product in a way you'd expect from Brazil's most famous cattle town.

The only reason most people visit Barretos is the Festa do Peão de Boiadeiro, held every August. The festival runs for ten days in the second half of the month and draws around 800,000 to one million visitors. Book accommodation months in advance — rooms within 50 kilometres fill up entirely. During the festival the Parque do Peão runs around the clock: bull riding in the afternoons and evenings, with major sertanejo and forró acts performing nightly.

Outside August, Barretos is a quiet provincial town with little specific to draw visitors. The climate is hot year-round, with a wet season from October through March. If you are passing through without timing your visit to the festival, a couple of hours at the Parque do Peão and a good churrasco lunch is about right.