Ouro Preto is a good place to eat comida mineira — the rich, conservative cuisine of inland Minas Gerais, built on pork, beans, cabbage, and corn. Look for tutu à mineira (mashed beans with bacon and farofa), frango com quiabo (chicken with okra), and feijão tropeiro (beans with sausage and toasted manioc flour). Most restaurants charge by the kilo at lunch, por quilo — load a plate at the buffet, weigh it at the counter.
Evenings are quieter than you'd expect for a town this famous. The student bars below Praça Tiradentes are the most reliable spots for a late meal; restaurants further from the square close by 22:00.