A small bookshop-café two blocks north of the Plaza on Calle Roca, Café Tapiz is a good place to thaw out after a morning at the cemetery or the market. The coffee is decent, the cakes are homemade, and the bookshelves are full of Patagonian history and old maps.
It draws a mix of locals, university students and the more bookish kind of traveller. Free wifi, slow but reliable.