Playa Arrecifes is the first beach you reach from the El Zaíno entrance, about an hour and a half into the hike. It's one of the longest and most visually spectacular beaches in the park — a wide arc of dark volcanic sand flanked by jungle and boulders, with open sea crashing in powerful sets. The setting is wild and beautiful.
The beach is not for swimming. Strong rip currents have claimed lives and the park service maintains a no-swimming warning. It's worth stopping here for a rest and a look — the scale and drama of the place is impressive — and the food stalls nearby offer good lunches of grilled fish, rice, and plantain. From Arrecifes, the trail continues another hour to La Piscina and Cabo San Juan. Most day-trippers turn around here; most overnight visitors push on.