The beach is the reason everyone comes to Atacames — a broad expanse of fine dark-grey volcanic sand that stretches in a long arc from the mouth of the Atacames river to the quieter end near Tonsupa. The sand is firmer than white-sand beaches and surprisingly pleasant to walk on. The water is warm year-round, running between 22°C and 26°C, and the waves are lively enough for bodysurfing without being threatening.
The social life of the beach is worth experiencing in itself: vendors walk the sand selling ceviche, whole coconuts, boiled corn, and sunglasses; parasols cluster around plastic chairs where families set up for the day; and in the evening the beachfront bars illuminate the sand with coloured lights and competing cumbia tracks. On weekdays outside holiday periods, the beach is uncrowded and you can find a stretch to yourself.
Swimming is generally safe along the main beach. The current can be strong at the river mouth at the eastern end — stick to the central stretch. Jellyfish appear occasionally in the dry season (June-November).