Palmeraie de Biskra

Biskra sits within the Ziban oasis belt, one of the largest concentrations of date palms in Algeria. The palmeraie — the palm grove — begins at the edge of the city and extends for kilometres, a dense, shaded world of irrigation channels, mud-brick walls, and the tall rustling columns of hundreds of thousands of trees. Walking or cycling through it in the late afternoon, when the light filters gold through the fronds, is one of the great simple pleasures of the Algerian Saharan edge.

The best dates to buy are Deglet Nour, harvested in October and November. Local sellers set up on the main road into the grove, and the price difference between here and anywhere else in Algeria is significant. The grove is also a habitat for birds, particularly in spring migration, and the coolness under the canopy makes it a refuge on hot days. The main entrance is walkable from the city centre.

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A story
The Deglet Nour date ("finger of light") is the most prized variety in the world — translucent, honey-sweet, and originally from the Ziban oases around Biskra. When André Gide visited in the 1890s, he described the palmeraie as the most sensuous landscape he had ever seen. The palms are still here, some of them centuries old, and the Deglet Nour is still the date that ends every high-end meal in Paris.

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