The old ksar at the heart of Touggourt is a dense, sand-coloured labyrinth of mudbrick houses, narrow lanes, and occasional vaulted passages. Most of it is in poor repair — many houses are abandoned or partly collapsed — but the atmosphere is powerful and unmistakably Saharan. The ruined palace of the Beni Djellab sultans is at the centre.
Walking through the lanes is the best way to experience the old town. People still live in parts of the ksar, and the central market spills out into the surrounding streets. Carry water and ask permission before photographing people.