Getting between Cape Verde's islands requires patience and flexibility. There are two options -- domestic flights and ferries -- and neither is perfectly reliable. Weather, mechanical problems, and shifting schedules are part of the deal. Never plan an inter-island transfer the day before an international flight. Always build in a buffer day.
Domestic flights are operated by Bestfly Cabo Verde (formerly Binter CV). Flights connect the main islands and take between 20 and 60 minutes. One-way fares typically run 50 to 150 euros depending on the route and how far ahead you book. Not every island has daily service -- some routes run only two or three times a week. During Harmattan season (December to March), dusty winds from the Sahara regularly ground planes, sometimes for days. Book early, especially in peak season, and do not count on last-minute availability.
Ferries are the other lifeline, and the only way to reach Santo Antao and Brava, which have no functioning airports. CV Interilhas operates most routes. The busiest crossing is Sao Vicente to Santo Antao (Porto Novo), which runs multiple times daily and takes about 50 minutes. A single ticket costs around 15 euros. Buy tickets at the port at least 90 minutes before departure. Longer routes between island groups can take many hours and run infrequently -- check schedules carefully and expect them to change.
On the islands, shared minivans called aluguers are the main form of public transport. They run fixed routes but no fixed schedules -- they leave when full. They are cheap and sociable but not fast. On larger islands like Santiago and Santo Antao, aluguers connect the main towns regularly. On smaller islands, service can be sparse.
Taxis are available in the main towns. Agree on the fare before you get in -- meters are rare. For longer trips or excursions, you can hire a taxi for a half or full day, which is often the most practical way to explore an island.
Car rental is possible on Sal, Boa Vista, Santiago, and Sao Vicente. Roads vary from decent tarmac to rough dirt tracks. A 4x4 is advisable on Boa Vista and Santo Antao. Drive carefully -- goats, pedestrians, and unmarked speed bumps are constant companions. Rental agencies are found at airports and in larger towns.