The central market spreads through several blocks in the middle of the city, with an inner cluster of permanent stalls and an outer ring of mobile vendors that grows and shrinks through the day. Everything is here — saka-saka (cassava leaves) and chikwangue (fermented cassava bread) in the food halls, secondhand clothing, brass cookware, batteries, plumbing parts, charcoal — and the soundtrack is permanent radio rumba.
It can feel chaotic and crowded; keep valuables hidden and your eyes open. The food section is the most worthwhile area for a visitor: the women selling smoked fish and dried prawns will give you small samples and explain what is what. Mornings are calmer and easier than the busy afternoons.