The Plateau du Serpent — the old European Quarter — is where the French colonial administration built its offices, residences, and civic institutions. The architecture is a particular shade of faded grandeur: wide verandahed buildings in ochre and pale yellow, wrought-iron balconies, and shaded arcades designed to manage tropical heat. Many buildings are in varying states of picturesque decay, which only adds to the atmosphere. The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Good Shepherd and the former governor's residence are the most photogenic structures. Walk the streets in the early morning or evening when the light is good and the temperature bearable. This is a genuine neighbourhood, not a tourist zone, so treat it accordingly.