Tadjoura is the oldest town in Djibouti, sitting on the north shore of the Gulf of Tadjoura about 100 kilometres from the capital by road (or a scenic boat crossing from L'Escale in Djibouti City). It was a trading port and seat of an Afar sultanate long before the French arrived, and the old town's whitewashed buildings and old mosques still give it a quiet, historic character that the capital lacks entirely.
The diving around Tadjoura is excellent. Sites like Ras Ali, Ras Ouan, and Tombant Point offer walls and drop-offs, large schools of trevally and barracuda, reef rays, and sea turtles. Between November and February, whale sharks feed in the gulf waters nearby — one of the most reliable whale shark encounters in the Indian Ocean region. A day of diving followed by a picnic on one of the nearby white-sand beaches is about as good as it gets in Djibouti.
Behind the town, the Goda Mountains rise to over 1,700 metres — the only real highlands in the country, and the only place with significant vegetation. Day Forest National Park protects a rare patch of ancient juniper woodland and is the only habitat of the Djibouti francolin, one of Africa's rarest birds. The contrast with the parched coast below is startling.
Tadjoura is also a useful base for trips to Lake Assal, which lies to the southwest. The town has basic accommodation and a few restaurants. It is quieter and cheaper than the capital, though facilities are limited.