Lac Abbe sits on the Ethiopian border, about 140 kilometers southwest of Djibouti City, and it is one of the most otherworldly landscapes in Africa. The lake itself is mostly dry — a flat expanse of cracked salt and clay — but what makes it extraordinary are the travertine chimneys. Dozens of them, some over 50 meters tall, rise from the lake bed and vent sulfurous steam from geothermal springs below. They formed over millennia as mineral-rich water cooled and deposited layer upon layer of limestone.
At dawn, when the light is low and the steam catches the sun, the chimneys glow against the desert sky. Flamingos wade in the remaining shallow pools. Afar herders bring their goats and camels to the hot springs. The scene is quiet, ancient, and strange.
The persistent legend that the original Planet of the Apes was filmed here is romantic but false — that was shot in Arizona. The real Lac Abbe does not need the Hollywood connection. It is more alien than any film set.
Getting here requires a 4WD and a guide, arranged through operators in Djibouti City. The track is rough and unmarked. Most trips include an overnight camp near the chimneys so you can see them at both sunset and sunrise, which is the right way to do it. Bring everything you need — there is nothing out here. Visit between November and February when the heat is manageable.