Massawa's speciality is fresh seafood — the fish market near the old port sells the morning's catch, and several simple restaurants cook it to order. Grilled fish, shrimp, and lobster served with injera or rice are the staples. Expect very basic surroundings and very good food.
The waterfront area of Basé Island has the best concentration of restaurants. Prices are low by any standard. Many places serve the classic Eritrean combination of fresh fish with zigni (a spicy stew) and injera bread. Cold beer is available despite Massawa's overwhelmingly Muslim population — the city has always been cosmopolitan.