Eritrean Red Sea port spread across islands and causeways, with Ottoman-Egyptian and Italian colonial architecture.
Massawa is Eritrea's main port and one of the most atmospheric towns on the Red Sea coast. The city is spread across two islands and a strip of mainland, connected by causeways. Before Eritrean independence it was the headquarters of the Ethiopian navy, and the war of independence left it badly damaged — bombed-out buildings still stand alongside functioning ones. But the town has great charm, especially at night when the narrow alleyways between the Ottoman-Egyptian coral-block houses and crumbling Italian colonial facades come alive with people.
Taulud Island has the main sights: the old railway station (trains once climbed from here up to Asmara), St Mariam's Cathedral, and the Imperial Palace. Cross the second causeway and you reach the old port area, the most characterful part of town — faded Italian architecture, fish restaurants, and a waterfront that has not changed much in decades. The Sheikh Hanafi Mosque is the city's oldest religious building, a 15th-century Ottoman structure that survived the great fire of 1885.
Massawa is the starting point for trips to the Dahlak Archipelago, a scattering of islands with excellent diving and virtually no other tourists. Sheikh Said Island (Green Island), just opposite Taulud, makes an easy day trip. North of town, the white sand beach at Gurgussum is clean and uncrowded — good for swimming, snorkelling, and doing not much at all. Be warned: Massawa is one of the hottest cities on earth, regularly exceeding 40°C in summer.
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Eating Out
Massawa's speciality is fresh seafood — the fish market near the old port sells the morning's catch, and several simple restaurants cook it to order. Grilled fish, shrimp, and lobster served with injera or rice are the staples. Expect very basic surroundings and very good food.
The waterfront area of Basé Island has the best concentration of restaurants. Prices are low by any standard. Many places serve the classic Eritrean combination of fresh fish with zigni (a spicy stew) and injera bread. Cold beer is available despite Massawa's overwhelmingly Muslim population — the city has always been cosmopolitan.
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Getting There
Massawa is 115 km from Asmara via a spectacular mountain road that descends from 2,300 metres to sea level. The drive takes around two to three hours; the road winds through dramatic escarpment scenery and is one of the most striking in the Horn of Africa.
By road: Shared taxis and minibuses run between Asmara's main bus station and Massawa throughout the day. The journey takes two to three hours. Private taxis can also be arranged.
By train (historic): The Italian-built railway linking Massawa and Asmara has been partially restored as a heritage attraction. A short section now operates for tourists, though not as a regular transport service.
Massawa has no commercial airport. The nearest is Asmara International Airport.
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When to Go
Massawa is famously one of the hottest cities on earth. Between May and September temperatures regularly exceed 40°C and humidity is extreme; the city is close to uninhabitable for unacclimatised visitors during these months. Even the Eritreans who live here retreat to Asmara in the worst of the heat.
The best time to visit is between October and April, when temperatures are more bearable — typically 25–35°C with lower humidity. November to February is the most comfortable. Christmas and Eritrean Orthodox Christmas (7 January) see large numbers of Eritreans visiting; Easter weekend is the major domestic holiday.
The sea is warm year-round. Visibility for diving and snorkelling is generally best from October through May.